We had four teachers, Jenny, Mark, Brigid and Omar. The first three are all from the States and have traveled to many different countries and places teaching English. Omar however is a native of Costa Rica and has taught with the school for a few years now. Omar is also a part of one of the few indigenous tribes left here in Costa Rica. Originally there were 150 tribes, but due to various influences, there are now only 6. Omar has been trying over the years to hold onto the precious language, culture and village that makes up his roots. He has formed a group that sells crafts and educates about the Borukan village and lifestyle. He also has incorporated into TEFL the opportunity to travel to his village and stay overnight with a family. Not only did we get to go on a field trip, but we also got to learn his native language.
The school had always had a language learning section in their lessons, but here in Costa Rica they were able to incorporate learning a native Spanish tongue into their lesson plans. Every day for the first 5 days, we had as part of our schedule an hour dedicated to learning Borukan. To sit in the classroom and suddenly not understand ONE word coming out of Omar’s mouth was an experience unlike any other. I have in all of my language learning been able to decipher through like-sounds, a past memory or just sheer luck what a word might mean. With Borukan, I had none of these to rely on. I simply had to focus entirely on the new sounds I was hearing and the small clues Omar was giving. The language sounded like a perfect mixture of syllables from every tongue I was familiar with and a few that I was not. There was also a whistle and other non-verbal sounds combined to create this interesting language. It brought all the classes we were knee-deep in at the moment full circle. Much to our surprise, we all learned a little of this unique and beautiful language. Omar was able to effectively teach us Borukan from a level of zero-beginner with out ever using English as a crutch when we had no clue what he was saying.
It was impressive and so much fun to learn a new language, especially one so rich in culture. Most everyone enjoyed learning Borukan, but some more than others. Props go to Rich… you crushed it, man. Rich loved the language from the moment Omar walked in the door. Rich picked it up quick and was eager to learn. The next surprise from Omar was that we had the opportunity (if we wanted) to travel with him back to the reserve that his people lived on. Not a problem! So the second weekend of school, we loaded up two vans combined with one of the local schools that teach Spanish, and headed out for a weekend filled with a culture far from the one most of us were used to.
On our way, Omar made a few stops to show us some culturally important places. First on that list was a strange phenomenon that has gone unsolved for decades. They are stone spheres that were found in the Diquis Delta.
Hundreds have been found since the 30's after a potentially 1800 year time span in which they could have been made. Many of the balls were found to be in alignments, consisting of straight and curved lines, as well as triangles and parallelograms. These stones range in size from a few centimeters to over 2 meters in diameter. Some of these weigh over 16 tons! The theories of their beginnings run wild. A few of the favorites are that aliens and UFOs created them, or that giants lost their marbles. Others have been convinced the rocks contained treasure on the inside, only to be disappointed after blowing them up. These rocks are pretty wild, especially when you think about how we still have no idea exactly why these balls existed.
Ana and I goofing off.
Ta-da!
Another stop we made was to a peak next to the river that supplied the Borukan village with transportation and food for decades. With the modern invention of cars and passable roads, the river has been used less and less for transportation and more still for food and energy. The river is pretty choc-full of crocs, so likely the dry road would seem better than lunch for a croc.
One of the stops that we made wasn't quite as much for history as it was more for a taste of the culture... in a bar. While we didn't all imbibe there, within a matter of minutes, a crew of locals came in, cranked the music, and started teaching dances.
Across the street was a unique fruit and food stand. We were going deeper and deeper into this culture and it was wonderful.
As we made our way onto the reservation, Omar stopped the vans and made us all get out to view the lands. Feeling a bit like Simba looking out on his Great Kingdom, Omar showed us the boundaries of his tribe's lands using landmarks like the summit of those 3 mountains and the rivers. A beautiful road that traveled along the crest of a mountain was the only access into the reservation by road. It was where the Spaniards and the Borukan people met long ago and fought for the land. This was also where we were told of the ancient myths (some of which still are believed today) about the little people that can protect, or cause mischief. This was a very powerful stop and a great way to bring around the right kind of energy for entry into this special place.
Omar!
Stunning views.
The next stop we made was Omar's house. His family which consists of his parents, many brothers and tons of cousins, nephews and nieces all still live in the village. His family was so gracious to let about 30 foreign faces come invade their simple house and the generosity they extended was beyond comprehension. His mother, who weighs all of 90 pounds was amazing and welcoming. Later in the evening she cooked some of the most delicious food for dinner, and fed all of us. It consisted of a type of pork, yucca potatoes, black beans, rice and more. She finished up this meal with a yummy plantain, banana and rice pudding desert. But before dinner, we had an amazing experience of watching the reenactment of the Spanish invasion of the village demonstrated by the town's chief and other important members (including Omar). Some took pictures, but being at night a flash was required and I was not interested in disturbing this amazing ceremony as I felt honored to even be allowed to watch it.
After the previously mentioned dinner, we gathered around the fire to drink a homemade drink that warms you from the inside out and tasted a lot like a slightly tart but surprisingly mellow fruity wine. After the drink passing, that occurred out of homemade bowls, we were divided up into small groups of 2 and 3 to go to a home of one of the locals where we would spend the night. Ana and I were destined for the chief's daughter's home, although the plans changed when we got there. The daughter wasn't there and the kids didn't know where she was. So instead, the chief started going to surrounding houses to see if we could crash somewhere. A bit awkward, but we finally found a home where the chief said would take us. The family needed a few minutes to re-adjust to this new invasion and so we were gifted the opportunity to sit on the porch and talk with the chief about his village. It was amazing to listen to this man speak a mixture of Borukan and traditional Spanish as his speech was deliberate and well thought. He spoke of how he wanted the whole world to be able to see the ways and customs of his people since his people preached love and peace and taking care of the world. His wisdom and energy was one of the most amazing I have found to date. After what seemed like an hour, Ana and I finally had a place to sleep. Thus beginning another extreme experience. This family who with no warning opened their home to us, gave Ana and not only the only real bed, but the room where the entire family slept. The had a bunk bed set in the corner and one double bed in this tiny room along with a dresser. They moved the mattresses off the bunk beds and made a make-shift bed for themselves in the living room. Ana and I felt so amazingly humbled, we were almost speechless. The entire day had involved experiences like this, where the people here in Costa Rica and in this occasion, here in the reservation showed us generosity unlike any people I had met. They had far less than most and were willing to give you every last bit. The bed wasn't great and the night was a bit cold, but Ana and I were still finding ourselves grateful for this experience and opportunity to grow.
The next day we awoke early and headed back to Omar's house where his mom yet again cooked us a meal. This time it was a delicious meal of gallo pinto, yucca and some fried plantains. Served with delicious coffee, it was perfect.
We then headed to a gathering of some local artists where we were able to buy goods such as purses, drums, masks, paintings and more. We were able to see different masks in the process of being made, we heard ancient tales that inspired paintings and we were given a demonstration on how to dye the threads used to make their purses and clothes.
Each mask is carved, sanded and painted by hand.
After buying up most of the goods they had to offer, Omar took us to a favorite swimming hole. It was a beautiful waterfall that looked out over part of the reservation. It was amazing. Along the travels Ana and I had attempted to buy a watermelon, but instead the little girl gifted us the fruit instead. Ana and I were touched by her generosity and loved our new watermelon and felt it was only appropriate to wait for us to eat her. By doing so, we also decided it would be appropriate to name her. After careful thought we decided on the name Chloe. Ana quickly took my knife and carved sweet Chloe a face. To everyone, busmates and children alike, Chloe was a hit! We just tried to keep quite about her upcoming sacrifice at the river, we would hate to have upset our new friend. After experiencing everything (including our various excursions to see the reenactment, the home stay, the shopping), Chloe became one of the most delicious experiences so far. I cut my thumb with a slip from my trusty leatherman, perhaps a reminder from the other side from Chloe to always remember her...
Local kids goofing off.
The view from the waterfall.
Chloe!
Last bath?
Sayonara my sweet friend.
She almost looks a bit sad...
But man she tasted good.
After the adventure to the waterfall we headed back to Manuel Antonio. Of course as luck would have it on the way back our bus broke down and we had a two hour layover at a local soda that we had stopped in before for lunch. Wouldn't have been that big of a deal except that I was anxious to get home and discover if the clothes the laundromat had given away had found their way back to me or not. But that is another story...
By the time we got home, it goes without saying that the entire group had a new appreciation of how life could be. The trip will always be one of my favorite parts about my experiences here in Costa Rica. I feel honored to have had the opportunity and I hope to take what I learned with me through out all parts of this world.
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